A Bountiful Kingdom
A rich maritime history, a feast of natural wonders, and the crown jewel of Australian golf and cheese come together in one place.
At the centre of the western entrance to the Bass Strait is an idyllic haven known as King Island. Largely untouched, this island is rich with more than just stretching beaches, rolling hills, and abundant wildlife — it’s also teeming with history, tranquil avocation, and the best steak going ‘round.
With a population of just 1700, King Island is 64km long and 27km wide, meaning you will struggle to take more than an hour to get anywhere by car, and while in the car make sure to wave back to the locals as it appears to be as mandatory as indicating.
The north-most point is Cape Wickham and the southern-most point is Stokes Point (clearly named by a surfer). There are three main islands offshore — New Year Island and Christmas Island are just off the north-west of King Island, while Councillor Island is on the east side, opposite Sea Elephant Beach. Currie, Grassy and Naracoopa are the three towns on the island, all located just south of the islands halfway point. Apparently there is a fierce footy competition between the towns' respective clubs. Of course, being only three of them, one team has a bye each week.
A haven of a home nestled in the shrubs
A GRIM HISTORY
The island’s most impressionable landmark is the 48m tall lighthouse, located at the north-most point. This granite tower is Australia’s — and the Southern Hemisphere’s — tallest lighthouse, built in response to Australia's worst ever maritime disaster, when, in 1845, the Cataraqui sank. The disaster claimed 400 lives and is one of many shipwrecks, with King Island being the location of 60 known shipwrecks and 2000 lost lives. Some of today’s locals are the descendants of survivors.
To uncover some of these sombre sites you can follow the King Island Maritime Trail.
THE JOURNEY
As you are likely aware, the Bass Strait isn’t known for gentle waters, so it’s best to exercise caution and allow a wide departure window if you plan to sail or motor across. Sailing to King Island from Melbourne will take the better part of a full day, and you will have the choice between two ports at either Grassy or Currie. Being the largest of the towns and the administrative centre to the island, Currie is best to moor at for a single day's exploration of the island or if you have accommodation on land. If you're staying aboard overnight however, Currie port is significantly exposed while Grassy port is within a sheltered cove. No need to use the anchor either as there are a couple of public mooring spots to choose from.
If travelling by air, flights are available from Melbourne, Launceston or Burnie Wynyard Airport. The island’s airport is just north of Currie.
Sailing along its coastline is a great way to appreciate the island
THE NATURAL ENVIRONMENT
King Island hosts a great variety of natural habitats and untouched landscapes that are a joy to discover. A hire car is a must if you want to get anywhere on the island — in fact, a 4WD is a must. You’ll notice there isn’t a single local with anything that can’t handle a little offroad. While a dirt trail is never more than five minutes away, keener 4WDers should venture south past Grassy and Red Hut for some spectacular terrain, or north around Lavinia Point for some more challenging tracks. Various 4WD Coach tours are also available on one to four day-long trips that can take the stress out of throwing around a hire vehicle.
Walking tracks are also in plenty, the most stunning of them including the paths around Seal Rocks and Disappointment Bay.
Seal Rocks’ steep cliffs and crashing seas provide a dramatic contrast to the island's prominently flat meadow landscape. The Copperhead Walk leads visitors along the cliffs and through the 7000-year-old calcified forest where these stunning trees look as if they have exploded out of the sand and have been frozen in time. Seal Rocks is located on the south-west corner of the island.
Red Hut is one of the island's many untouched beaches
Disappointment Bay is on the opposite side of the island and is truly an antithesis of its name. The bay has one of the island’s most beautiful beaches, with long stretches of white sand, sporadic collections of crashing rocks and lively reefs, perfect for a long stroll. The only ‘disappointing’ aspect to the bay is the 1835 Neva shipwreck that lost 224 lives to the bay.
Pamphlets detailing the 150km of walking and 4WD tracks can be found at the Currie post-office. Yet no matter where you venture, you’ll be sure to come across plenty of the island's wildlife.
Peacocks, kangaroos, turkeys and even penguins are likely to cross your path. If you moor at Grassy Port, keep an eye out for the penguin chicks waddling up from the beach at night. Birdwatchers will be keen to spot the critically endangered Orange-bellied Parrot, of which are almost endemic to the island and can be found in Important Bird Areas (IBA) up north-east. The elusive platypus is also commonly spotted on the island, despite being one of the hardest Australian animals to find in the wild. Be sure to keep your wits while driving however, as you will quickly notice road-kill.
Also in abundance is room to cast your rod. A great variety of species can be fished off King Island's shores including Mako Sharks, Crayfish, Marwong, Salmon, Gummy Sharks and of course, Kingfish.
Ready for adventure
ON THE GREEN
One of the most amazing things about King Island is that despite hosting a population of only 1700, it has three different golf courses, with two listed in Australia’s top 5, as well as listed by experts in the top 20 worldwide. These two courses are Cape Wickham and Ocean Dunes 18-hole, both of which are worth going for the views alone. However, it would be wise to bring a few spare balls if you are more of a casual golfer as a few will inevitably be lost to the dense grasslands and jagged cliffs. A less challenging local 9-hole course also features in the heart of Currie.
SURFS UP
Another past time the island is renowned for is its surf. With some elite surf-breaks and a general lack of people competing for waves, King Island is a haven for the stoke enthusiast. Martha Lavinia beach on the north-east coast has been labelled by Tracks Magazine as ‘the best beach break in Australia’, and some have speculated it is Mick Fanning’s famous ‘secret wave’.
One of the best parts about surfing a tiny island is that if conditions are poor on one coast, a 20-minute drive to the other side will likely reveal some ideal waves. Even non-surfers can still appreciate the spectacular beaches, clear water and flawless waves. Some good spots include Red Hut Beach, British Beach, and Martha Lavinia. The locals will also be happy to direct you to the best spots or to someone who knows. Ernie down at the Grassy service station and pub is one such local.
Sailing around the island and along the north beaches is another great way to find the perfect surf-break, as there are plenty to choose from that are hardly far between.
The island is popular with surfers
FOOD
It is near impossible to visit King Island without stopping by the highly accoladed King Island Dairy Factory. Being one of the few places in Australia where cows graze all-year-round, the island’s milk is highly praised for its cheese production. Hence, King Island Dairy’s cheese is an internationally recognised premium product. A visit to the factory can entail a tour of the factory and/or a perusal and taste of some of the cheeses in the cafe. At the cafe is a complimentary tasting platter among other purchasable platters which can be enjoyed with a craft beer or wine. To leave the cafe without a few cheeses for the road is simply not possible.
Another exceptional product on the island is the cattle themselves. These delectable steaks are served at the King Island Club or Parers Hotel in Currie, and at the Grassy Club on Friday nights. The supposed secret to their steaks is that they are fed fresh kelp year-round. If you head south of Currie you will see tonnes of kelp hanging off hooks just off the road — you can even pull over to try some.
The cattle population is unmissable
CONCLUSION
For an island so small with so few people, there is an exceptionally vast variety of things to do and see. While you can golf, surf, and eat till the sun comes down, the island’s greatest enticement is its natural wonders as it offers a spectacularly microcosmic reprieve with its infinite coastline and untouched beauty. The island is perfect for Victorians looking for a not too strenuous maritime adventure, or for anyone after a holiday in a unique rural area. Just be sure to have your waving hand at the ready.
CONTACTS
DISCOVER KING ISLAND
95 Main St, Currie
P (03) 6462 1260
E enquiries@discoverkingisland.com.au
W discoverkingisland.com.au
KING ISLAND DAIRY
869 North Rd, Loorana
P (03) 6462 0947
W kingislanddairy.com.au
OCEAN DUNES GOLF COURSE KING ISLAND
396 North Road, Loorana
P 0448 544 653
W oceandunes.com.au